Look, I'm gonna lay it out straight because I'm tired of homeowners thinking we're just twisting a wrench for five minutes and charging $300. That service call fee? It covers the van (gas ain't cheap), insurance (because when we flood your basement, you WANT us insured), licensing, and the fact that I'm driving through Lakeshore traffic at 11 PM in January. The 2026 average service call in Chicago runs $175-$300 just to show up. Then there's labor - figure $150-$225 per hour depending on if you're in Lincoln Park or out in the South Suburbs. Parts are extra. Always. A simple shut-off valve that costs $8 at the hardware store? We're charging $35 because we stock it, warranty it, and install it correctly (not like your brother-in-law who uses Teflon tape on compression fittings). Here's the cold hard truth - emergency calls after 5 PM or weekends? Double it. That's the game. I've seen guys try to negotiate at 2 AM with a burst pipe spraying their furnace. Brother, this ain't a flea market.

Twenty-five winters in this city taught me one thing: Chicago doesn't care about your pipes. We're talking temps that drop to -10°F, sometimes -20°F with windchill. Your exterior hose bibs? They're gonna freeze and crack if you don't shut off the interior valve and drain them (most people forget the draining part). I've seen entire main lines freeze in crawl spaces because some builder in 1947 didn't insulate properly. Sump pumps fail when you need them most - that February thaw when everyone's discharge line is frozen solid and the pump just runs dry or burns out. Here's what happens: ground freezes deep, frost line goes down 42 inches (that's code here), and if your water service line is old lead or galvanized? It can crack from the pressure. The spring thaw is when I make half my yearly income because everyone's got seepage, foundation cracks, and backed-up floor drains. Get your sump pump serviced in November. Not March when it's already failed.

Pipe bursts and you're gonna panic. Don't. First thing - SHUT OFF THE MAIN WATER VALVE. You've got one where your service line enters (usually basement, sometimes crawl space). Turn it clockwise. All the way. I don't care if you're flooding - electricity and water kill people, so flip your main breaker if water's near outlets or your panel. Now contain it - towels, buckets, whatever. Move furniture. Take pictures (insurance will want them). Here's what people do wrong: they call their plumber BEFORE shutting off water. I've showed up to houses with 3 inches of standing water still pouring because they didn't know where the valve was. A burst pipe in Chicago (especially those old galvanized runs) can dump 4-8 gallons per MINUTE. That's 400+ gallons in an hour. Your drywall, flooring, personal stuff - all ruined. The repair itself? Cutting out the bad section, soldering or ProPress fittings, maybe $300-$800 depending on access. The water damage? $5,000-$25,000 easy. I've seen it. Mold remediation, subfloor replacement, the whole nightmare. Winter pipe bursts happen most when people go on vacation and set thermostats too low (keep it at 55°F minimum).

Water heaters are failing all over Chicago right now because most are 12-15 years old (that's the lifespan - don't believe the 20-year hype). Standard 40-50 gallon tanks run $1,800-$2,800 installed in 2026. That includes hauling out the old one (they weigh 150+ lbs full of sediment), bringing the install up to current code (expansion tanks are REQUIRED now, plus proper venting), and permitting. Tankless water heaters? Everyone wants them until they see the $3,500-$5,500 price tag. They're great - endless hot water, energy savings - but your electrical panel needs to support it (most need 150-amp service minimum) and gas lines often need upsizing. I've seen COWBOY PLUMBERS install tankless units without proper venting and people end up with carbon monoxide issues. Not funny. Here's my take: if you've got a family of 4+ and you're staying in the house 10 years, tankless pays off. Otherwise, get a quality standard tank (Bradford White or Rheem), maintain it (flush it yearly), and call it good. And for the love of God, don't let your 'buddy who does some plumbing' touch it. Flooding from bad installs costs more than hiring a licensed pro.

Your main line is the big pipe (usually 4-inch) that runs from your house to the city sewer or septic. When it backs up, everything in your house stops draining - toilets, sinks, washing machine, everything comes back up (usually in your basement floor drain first because it's lowest). In Chicago, we've got ancient clay tile sewers, Orangeburg pipe (that tar paper garbage from the '50s that collapses), and cast iron that rusts through. Tree roots? They're in EVERYONE'S lines. I've pulled out root balls the size of basketballs. Basic augering (snaking) runs $300-$600 and clears the blockage temporarily. Hydro-jetting is the real deal - high-pressure water (3,000-4,000 PSI) that scours the pipe clean. Costs $600-$1,200 but lasts way longer. Here's where it gets expensive: if we run a sewer scope camera ($300-$400 service) and find your line is collapsed, bellied, or offset? You're looking at excavation. Digging up and replacing 50 feet of sewer line in Chicago runs $8,000-$15,000 depending on depth and if we're going under your driveway. Some older neighborhoods (Logan Square, Bridgeport) still have combined sewers that back up during heavy rains - that's a whole other nightmare (and NOT your plumber's fault).

Look, there's a shortage of real plumbers right now. Guys who came up through apprenticeships, know code, and don't cut corners. Then there's the hacks - unlicensed handymen, guys running Craigslist ads, 'discount plumbing' operations with no insurance. Here's how you tell: licensed plumbers in Chicago carry a City of Chicago plumbing license (not just a business license). Ask for the number. We're insured for AT LEAST $1 million liability (ask to see the certificate). We pull permits for water heaters, sewer work, and major repairs (permits protect YOU). We don't give estimates over the phone without seeing the job (anyone who does is guessing or lowballing). I've seen hack jobs: PEX tubing run without proper supports (it sags and creates low spots where water sits), P-traps installed backwards (sewer gas in your house), water heaters vented into chimneys that aren't rated for it (DANGEROUS CARBON MONOXIDE). A real plumber explains what's wrong, shows you options, and doesn't pressure you. We're busy enough - we don't need to scare you into unnecessary work. Check reviews, but know that some bad reviews are from cheapskates who refused to pay for proper fixes. Get 2-3 quotes on big jobs. Just don't pick the lowest bid automatically.

Here's the thing - not everything's an emergency, but people treat it that way (and then complain about after-hours rates). Real emergencies: burst pipes actively flooding, main sewer line backing up sewage into your house, no water at all (main line break), gas leaks (GET OUT and call the gas company first), water heater actively leaking (turn off supply valve and gas/electric). Those require immediate response. What can wait until morning? Dripping faucets (annoying but not destructive), slow drains (unless completely stopped), running toilets (turn off the angle stop under the toilet), minor leaks you can catch with a bucket. I've had people call at midnight because their garbage disposal is jammed. Brother, that's a Monday morning call. The labor shortage means you might wait 2-3 days for non-emergency work during busy season (spring thaw, pre-Thanksgiving, right before Christmas when everyone's got company coming). Plan ahead. Get your sump pump checked in fall, not during the April rains. Replace that water heater when it's 10 years old, not when it fails at 6 PM on Friday. I'm not trying to be harsh - I'll come out for real emergencies any time - but managing expectations means you won't pay double for something that could've waited. And keep a good plumber's number saved. When you need us, you REALLY need us.